Marklin Layouts and DCC

So I have a friend who is a Marklin modeler.  His thing is scenery, but with this new layout he has he got Marklin DCC and asked me to do the electrical.  Now I've never worked with AC trains before so I was a bit unsure of what to do.  I studied up a bit and brought my tool box over and went to work.

First thing that happened was I determined that we didn't have the right power supply, completely wrong model.  So he over-nighted the correct power supply but it came with a bare wire adapter.

So I went to Radio Shack which was still open but almost empty and they still had the plug matching station with most plugs still on the rack.  The M plug fit the best, but they didn't have one, so I took the next best thing which was the K plug.

I installed the K plug and and tested the voltage at 20 volts.  Everything was perfect.

Then, since I can read German I was easily able change the language on the Mobile Station to English and start using the functions to troubleshoot the trains....

One at a time I tested the 3 locomotives.  2 only buzzed very faintly and 1 does run for 8 seconds then stops.  Then when I press the stop button again it goes another 8 seconds, but no reverse and no speed control.....

and the troubleshooting goes on.....

Old GE U and -7 series rebuilds B36-7 U30B U28B

What is on the Bench Today

Here is what I got going on today:

So what are they and more importantly: why would anyone do a thing like this?

Since I'm modeling a large belt railroad that goes around Chicago outside of the EJ&E loop, I need locomotives to represent the interchange.  These 5 units are all being rebuilt and upgraded and will be called B38A2.  I got a little crazy with the saw on one unit as you can see and had to cut in a section of an SD24 to make the cab fit.  Yes it's crazy, but really fun.

All of these are going to be CSX with the Yn3b paint scheme.  The story goes that CSX needed more 4 axles locomotives and bought these 5 rebuilds from VULCAN Industries.  They have huge anti-climbers and the new 16-252 engine from  Fairbanks Morse, which is the ceramic version of the 16-251, and yes that is the ALCO prime mover that is still being built by Fairbanks Morse.

3 of these are Athearn Blue Box, the one with SD24 cut in is a U36B with the original 8 wheel drive and the final one is a U36B with the pancake motor.

The old 8 wheel drive was tricky to get it running smooth. I tried everything I knew.  In a final act of desperation I sprayed contact cleaner on the brushes and WD40 everywhere else and suddenly it came to life and runs super smooth.  I would say it will have a rating of Mission Capable around 70%.

The Athearns are 2 with the gold motor and 1 with the old motor.  They are run very smooth after a total tear down and rebuild.

Finally the pancake Bachmann...it looked like it had spent a couple years in a sandbox, but when I removed the shell there was an almost never used motor in it.  It runs great and the circuit board makes DCC so easy on this one.  Super quiet and smooth, its really unbelievable.

OK...back to the bench....

Precision Gears after the casting

Precision Gears after the casting

So I made my mold and cast some gears......

This is what happened - I did the deed and made some gears.

The gears actually turned out pretty good, but my resin is way to flexible and the gears, while nice, are to flexible to put into service.

Now I have found the proper resin to make gears and new instructions to make the mold so I'm going to give it another shot....

Bachmann Cracked Gears and their Replacement

The Merry Christmas Edition

So as most of you already know I have a thing for Bachmann and Life-Like pancake motors.  I've said many times why I like them and detailed how to repair them.

Now it's time to take things to another level...

Cracked Gears

This is problem that plagues many modelers today.  They want to know how to replace cracked gears for whatever reason and get no help on any of the modeling forums.  Most replies are to junk the engine or turn it into a dummy or more completely unhelpful information.

I've been studying the methods used by hobbyists who fly drones.  They generally use a lot of repair parts.  Some of the frequently used parts is several types of small precision gears.  Usually it is not cost effective or their is an accuracy problem with 3D printing these gears.

In their forums a several articles on making these gears by using a mold and casting material.

I've done lots of casting of parts, especially parts that are no longer made such as Tyco sideframes which are frequently missing when purchased on ebay or at a train show.

I decided I would give it a shot and mold several gears that most frequently cracked in Bachmann and Life-Like pancake equipped locomotives.

The primary reason I want to do this is because most modelers tend to be really hard on those who want to repair and restore this type of locomotive.

Another reason is to many modelers these locomotives have sentimental value.  For example, I love my collection of Tyco Golden Eagles.  I also like the like my Bachmann E60CF and I have a huge project going on with a number of Bachmann E60CP.

My projects with these locomotives involve a lot of chopping and scratchbuilding, something I love doing.  To do my E60CP project I required 4 of these locomotives.  Yes there are newer versions with better mechanical, but this project isn't something I want to spend almost $1000 dollars on.

The final reason I'm doing this is because so many people say don't waste your time.  I don't listen to people who say "can't."  I intend to perfect the technique and then post it to the forums.

Right now I've started with 2 gears most commonly found cracked.  I've 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type in the mold and after 24 hours I'll take them out and make my first cast in polyester resin.  So far I've found this resin has the strength do the job very well.....

We'll find out what happens by Saturday.  If it works I'll post my method here.....

Fast Tracks Switches Part 3

Fast Tracks Switches Part 3

Well my first try with Fast Tracks turned out pretty bad.  And if you remember I did a little reflection later to see if I had learned anything.

So now I've made my next switch and it went a lot better.  I haven't installed it into the test track yet, but will shortly.

Here it is:

The final product....I'm not that good at painting and weathering track yet, but at least it seems to be working ok.....

What I learned this time around:

I was planning hinged points after my first experience with continuous points.  After watching the videos, I was a bit concerned about pulling it off.  I had already built everything with hinged points in mind, and then I discovered that if I just did nothing and didn't put in the hinges everything seemed to work just fine while still appearing to be continuous points.  I'll post an update on how this works out.

MP40DDAX

MP40DDAX

So I've been working on a new switcher....the MP40DDAX

Yes, it's totally badass.  So check it out and then I'll answer a few questions....

Parked in front of my Apollo Brewery...

FAQ:

1. The front is so far away how does the engineer see whats going on?

Answer:  Thanks to military surplus, the engineer has a 32" plasma screen that provides 360° vision via the Commander's Independent Thermal Viewer (yet to be added to the model) which is located at the front.

In addition, the viewer will be supported by the brightest lights I can mount and infrared both passive and active.  Same system used on the Abrams Tank.

2. This thing is totally ridiculous, why did you make this abomination?

Answer:  Because my 5 year old daughter told me to.  She saw the new MP15 cab set and said that it belonged on a DD40 sitting on a work bench.

3. It's way to long to actually work, how will you solve the coupler problem to negotiate 22" radius?

Answer:  there will be a Steam Punk swinging coupler arrangement that will look like something out of Japanese Anime.  And it will be badass....

That is all for now.....

Fast Tracks Switches

Fast Tracks Switches

OK I have to retract my earlier conclusions about Fast Tracks......

I'm not making any more continuous rail switches.  From now on, they will all have hinged points.

Why?

Because without hinged points the damn things are impossible to switch.  My ground throws have been actually torn apart by the force of the continuous points. So the next batch will all be hinged points and I'm going to be removing all the old switches and doing them over.......