On the workbench we have a 1957 A.C. Gilbert Alco Diesel in HO scale.
These are the before pictures for this rebuild. I don't collect them, I find them, fix them and run them. This locomotive has excellent potential and for being 62 years old it was in very good shape. It was missing a drive shaft, which was easy to fabricate. The mechanism is similar to Tenshodo brass. The plan is to replace the fully functional open frame Pittman motor with a new 24 volt rare earth magnet motor. The wires will be replaced with silicone wiring. Since the motor will be isolated, there is no reason this can't be an excellent DCC locomotive. There is also plenty of space to add big sound to this build.
We'll see what happens... I have yet to see where anyone has rebuilt one of these, though I'm sure they're out there somewhere....
Friday, November 1, 2019
The AHM FM C-Liner Rebuild Project
The C-Liner project is coming along nicely. The much maligned from pilot was cut off and replaced with some tin I bent from an oyster tin.
The B unit is a dummy, but I've made it to pickup power which I plan to distribute through tiny 2 pin connectors to the 2 A units making a lash up that gets power from all 3 units together making for a super reliable set up. Picking up power from many wheels over a long distance should insure that it never stalls from lack of power.
1976 TYCO Midnight Special 50th Anniversary Shark Nose Locomotive
The Alco RF-16 Shark Nose Diesel Locomotive built from 1950-1953 was a 1600 horsepower engine.
TYCO came out with a Shark Nose called the Midnight Special for the 50th Anniversary in 1976.
I rebuilt this model and dressed it up a bit to see how it might look. Turned out pretty good, runs decent and is equipped with LED lighting.
Wednesday, October 23, 2019
Track Planning for Beginners Part 1
This is how I am carrying out my track planning.
1. Prepare the available space. At a minimum clean the area where the bench work will go.
2. Measure the space available and use a piece of graph paper to make a map of the area.
3. I used handy panels which are 2'x4' and I made the bench work follow the wall. Going wider than 2 feet around a wall makes maintenance and operations more difficult.
4. Make a list next to your map of the possible configurations - even some you know you don't want or are impractical. Consider using a 4'x8' sheet that you can walk around both long sides.
5. Start the Design Process.
I. Visualize what you want out of your model railroad. Imagine the things you really like and how the look and feel of the layout will make you happy. Imagine showing your layout to your friends. Imagine how things will look at sunrise, sunset and night.
II. Describe your vision by making a list of the coolest things you could think of - the look, the feel and how you would explain it to a friend viewing it for the first time.
III. Start drawing your best guess on your map.
6. Armchair modeling is when you make track plans on paper and imagine how they will function. This is a hobby all to itself - you can make track plans on paper just because it's fun. I like to keep these things in a Composition Book Quad Rule. You can find these in many stores and even the dollar store. Try laying out a simple industry with 1 track and a run around track. Then bend that configuration in many different ways and see if you can imagine dropping off and picking up cars.
7. Assuming you decided on a tentative plan and have prepare the space then build the primary bench work. I personally do not use foam tops because I nail my track in place. I do this on purpose because I like to lay down track and test it, redo it and retest it. I like cork bulletin boards squares on top of particle board. That doesn't mean you should do that. Particle board can be very tricky stuff to work with because of the numerous scenery techniques that involve putting a liquid down for scenery which will be soaked up by the board causing it to swell. I've been using it for a very long time and know its properties and how it reacts to water and temperature changes. The cork squares just so happen to be 1'x1' making it very easy to draw accurate maps. It also makes it easy to put some track on it and see if it actually lines up the way you think it will.
8. Start putting track and your favorite cars on the benchwork to see how they look. You can nail down some track, test it and go back to your map. Keep refining your plan using the new information from your tests. Also start small - get little parts to work and build on them, i.e., don't lay down a huge yard first. If you have an industry or a single track somewhere put that one down first and start building out from there. Many people like to lay down the mainline first and make everything fit after that. I like to lay down simple pieces and build out which then creates a mainline which only has to be completed.
9. Test and Retest. Rebuild and test again.
metal pencil sharpener
Thursday, September 19, 2019
Working on the old MP40
The right combination of parts was found with the MP15 cab and base plus an Atlas Trainmaster H24-66 frame and finally the correct height to get the cab to see over the body was achieved.
The dual motors will be upgraded to 2 24 volt rare earth magnet motors which should give a super smooth movement like the high torque 24 volt rare earth magnet motor used in the single motor Athearn Blue Box DD40 that we did on YouTube.
Friday, July 20, 2018
Tenshodo SD24 Total Rebuild and Repower
I've been working on this old brass Tenshodo SD24 for a couple of years on and off. My goal is to make it a decent running locomotive.
I selected a high torque rare earth magnet motor with a 2mm shaft. This motor runs around $6 each. These types of motors are far superior to anything else out there. They are very good on the low end, but at 24v, you never reach the top end so the locomotive may seem a bit slow. If you run trains at low speeds, this is the type of motor you want. The torque is very high, much more than you are probably used to.
I made the motor mount on the 3D printer just the right height so the motor shaft is aligned with the drive shaft on the gear tower.
Here's where the problem is located: these locomotives used a 2mm rubber hose to connect their 2.3mm shafts to the old open frame motor. I could save this hose and with a drop of glue make it work probably ok. The hose takes away just a bit of freedom of sideways movement, and that little bit almost certainly adds up to frequent derailments on most track, unless you have huge radius and large turnouts.
Let's table the hose for now and move to more serious problems.
The motor shaft connects to a hose that connects to a drive shaft that connects to a bakelite gear on a gear tower that connects to another bakelite gear that connects to another bakelite gear that connects to a worm gear on a shaft connected to another worm gear connected to another drive shaft that connects to 2 more worms. Each worm connects to an axle. That's 3 bakelites, 4 worms, 5 total shafts.
The trouble starts with mating a bakelite gear to a metal worm. Once worn a little, lots of binding will happen.
No I'm going to replace anything with another drive system. In this shop, things get fixed, so let's figure out how to solve the problem.
Getting new hose is easy, but perhaps we can make couplings. Gears are riveted on, but not impossible to replace and we have plenty of those around.
Fabricating a new gear tower is totally possible using aluminum and may be the way to go, plus I really want to make something like that anyways.....